
Phuket is passe, Ko Phi Phi is a mad-house and Ko Tao is overrun with travelling divers wanting to snog each other. So where should the dedicated beach bum looking for a relatively private strip of sand head. Try Ko Lipe (pronounced Ko Lipae) – a smidgen of a T-shaped island so far from Thailand’s capital Bangkok, that it’s actually closer to the capital of neighbouring Malaysia.
Finding your way to Ko Lipe
Originally home to families of Chao Lay (Sea Gypsies), the island slipped onto traveller itineraries back in the mid 1990s, but thanks to its isolation only those with time on their hands tends to make it. From Bangkok you’re looking at at least a full day on the train, followed by a handful of hours on a bus, 30 minutes on a songthaeaw then finally around three hours on the boat.
Once you’re on the island you’ll see the trip was worth it. Ko Lipe’s largest beach, Pattaya Beach, couldn’t be further removed from its far better known namesake. A glistening white sand beach divides the offshore coral reef from an excellent variety of bungalows and resort-style accommodation.
Eat, drink and snorkle
Smaller Sunset Beach overlooks the impressive Ko Adang, which is part of the sprawling Ko Tarutao National Marine Park, while Sunrise Beach faces back towards the mainland, with more snorkelling and offshore islands in between. Off Ko Lipe are a bevy of other islands and reefs that can be visited on organised boat and diving trips, but Lipe’s equally well suited to hammock-bound pursuits.
Choose from more than a dozen places to stay, ranging from backpacker flophouses to smart flashpacker digs. Come evening head to one of the surprisingly sophisticated bars or restaurants. Lipe largely shuts down during the monsoon, so you’re best to visit between November and May. To reach it from Bangkok, take a train to Trang or Hat Yai, followed by minibus to the provincial capital of Satun, then on to the port town of Pakbara. Ferries run daily to the island.
Contributor
Stuart McDonald is the founder of Travelfish.org, a website for travellers heading to Southeast Asia. Lonely Planet describes Travelfish as “The most consistently updated website for independent travellers in Southeast Asia.” Travel writing since 1994, Stuart has written both guidebooks and print articles. He lives in Bali, Indonesia.
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Map of Ko Lipe, Thailand
